Rambling with the 333fab Air Land Sea – Morgan Taylor

Rambling with the 333fab Air Land Sea
Photos and words by Morgan Taylor

Look at the surface of the 333fab Air Land Sea, and you’ll see a drop bar bike that fits bigger tires than most, amazing custom paint and graphics, and components that reflect the very best of what’s available. But dig a bit deeper and you find something that can really only be found in a custom bike, something that innovates and pushes the boundaries, something that’s truly special. The Air Land Sea draws you in. It asks you to look, not to rush, but to consider what a bike might be if there really were no rules. And, you can have one.

What Is It?

The Air Land Sea is Max Kullaway’s first crack at a standard geometry chart, something he’d been wanting to do as a complement to his custom work. Distill this bike to its geometry numbers, looking only from the side profile, and you might be fooled into thinking it’s just a ‘cross bike with big tires – but that only tells part of the story. Sure, it’s got angles that would do just fine on the ‘cross course, 65-70mm of bb drop, a tight rear end, and the option for either a carbon ‘cross fork or a custom steel low trail fork.

But turn the Air Land Sea 90º either way, look at it from the front or the back, and you see what truly sets it apart. On the 27.5×2.25” WTB Ranger tires, there’s still loads of clearance at both ends. The Pacenti biplane fork crown is a thing of beauty, and the rear end is still super short. It’s a bike that you’d be happy to shred on the ‘cross course with a carbon fork, but even happier to ramble in the mountains with a front load and the big knobbies on.

How Do You Achieve All That?

The major distinction of the Air Land Sea is the use of a 73mm mountain bike width bottom bracket shell, as opposed to a 68mm road width shell. This is the first step toward carving out the clearance for 2.25” tires and keeping the rear end short. However, Max did choose a custom spec White Industries crank, pairing a M30 mountain width spindle with R30 road crank arms, a combination he’s dubbed “MR30”.

Frame Details

The Air Land Sea is limited to a 20-bike production run, but its details are nothing short of custom. The Paragon through-axle rocker dropouts are beautiful, the curves of the seat stays are elegant, the proportions of the tubes with the 34/44 external cup headset are perfect. This bike, the only Air Land Sea currently in existence, also has internal dynamo wiring in the frame, the Compass tail light tucked under the seat cluster, and the optional 65mm-offset steel fork.

That Paint

Seriously, that paint. Max wanted the Air Land Sea to be special, and to reflect his outlook from his shop in Seattle. He had Kyler Martz do up a set of drawings, which are laid over a three-color fade inspired by the Cascadian surroundings, and done in Seattle by Adam Blumenthal at Now You’re Finished. The result is absolutely stunning, and yet another detail that’ll have you looking closely at the Air Land Sea in a different way. This gallery would be a lot bigger if I’d tried to document and include all of the artwork.

333fab 3D-Printed Decaleur

I’ve chatted with a lot of people over the past 18 months about my Thomson/Ortlieb decaleur setup, which is still going strong and has adapted to a number of other bikes over the past year. My setup was inspired by that of Rob at Ocean Air Cycles, and the 333fab decaleur is another step in the lineage of pannier-hardware-based rando bag holding systems. While Max provided the bike with a custom Air Land Sea buffalo plaid Ozette from Swift Industries (part of the Air Land Sea collection, here), I wanted to see if my Hinterland Ozette and Ortlieb rail would work with his decaleur, which is does perfectly.

Max’s design uses a 3D-printed 6061 aluminum clamp, with a telescoping attachment bar made of 7075 aluminum with stainless hardware. The telescoping rods are adjustable for distance and height, while the clamp can rotate around the bar for fore-aft adjustment. For the production model the clamps will be black while the rods remain silver. It’s a really neat system and one that I’m so happy to see. Sure, you might be able to hack something together for less money, but it’s not likely to look this good or be nearly as easy to adjust.

I can say this with confidence: Max’s design takes the idea that Rob and I had been working with, and makes it more adjustable, lighter, and more elegant as well. The 333fab decaleur is a huge step forward and a massive innovation for rando bag users. When these become available – and last I spoke with Max about it, the decaleurs are on pace to be ready around the same time as the Air Land Sea production run – I’ll definitely be buying one.

All the Good Stuff

Spec-wise, this Air Land Sea has a lot of things I really like. The Paul Component Klamper brakes stand out, but the fact that they’re hooked up with Yokozuna compressionless housing is ideal. Force 1 is great. Max’s custom-spec White Industries crank affords lots of tire clearance yet better Q-factor than a full mountain crank. The SON 28 dynamo hub and White Industries CLD rear hub are a perfect match, though personally I would choose a rim other than the Blunt SS, which is ridiculously tight to get tires on and off of. The Nitto Campee 32f rack is one of my favorites, and the decaleur is great. Many of these things feel like home to me!

But How Does It Ride?

With Compass Cycle and Bicycle Quarterly based in Seattle and the Seattle International Randonneurs’ healthy membership, there’s a solid contingent of low trail advocates here in the Pacific Northwest. I’ve ridden a lot of front loaded bikes with rando bags and baskets, most of them with 45-50mm offset forks, and I don’t really mind the way those bikes handle. There are certain times when you do feel the flop of having all your weight on a rando rack, and that’s where the 65mm offset low trail fork comes in.

On dirt, where traction is already decreased, the low trail geometry definitely makes for a very floaty feel. It’s ultimately capable, and super shreddable both with and without a front load. That said, for rough singletrack riding, the weight of a bag on your fork is not going to magically disappear with a low trail fork. On dirt roads, and at lower speeds, the easier steering of the low trail geometry does help the Air Land Sea from feeling floppy like some bikes can.

Where the low trail geometry really shines is cornering on at higher speeds with a front load, particularly on hard surfaces. At these times, I’m super stoked on the fork and the general geometry. The reduced wheel flop of the low trail geometry lets the Air Land Sea fall over into a nice arc when carving descents – it’s a joy to slalom when you’re going fast and have lots of road to use up.

When I need to go in a straight line, though, I’m less stoked on low trail. The steering requires such little input to make the bike turn that I find myself weaving around a lot. Low trail aficionados tell me that characteristic is desirable when you’ve been riding for 30 hours… maybe Max will let me keep the bike long enough to try that out. Overall, I’m not sure why there’s such a big a gap between a standard 50mm touring fork offset and the rando-preferred 65mm, and I’m really curious how 55 and 60mm would ride on a bike like this.

Q-Factor and Gear Range

For all its innovation, the Air Land Sea isn’t immune to the same problems being chased by all custom builders and production manufacturers: the same three things – chainring, chainstay, and tire – are fighting for space right behind the bottom bracket.

To be honest I’m not bothered by the 73mm bottom bracket shell. I’ve got an XT mountain double on my Wolverine which means I’m already riding a Q-factor higher than what the Air Land Sea has with its hybrid White Industries crank. I just did a 200 km brevet on the Wolverine this past weekend, and have no complaints about its Q-factor even for long rides – and the same goes for the Air Land Sea.

That said, one of the decisions Max made with this bike was to skip accommodating a front derailleur. While I have primarily been riding 1x drivetrains on my drop bar bikes for the past couple of years, I feel this is a limiting factor – especially with a 36 tooth chainring. I’ve been talking to Max about this over the past few weeks as I put miles in on the Air Land Sea, and he’s mentioned that he’ll likely end up dimpling the chainstay on the production Air Land Sea bikes to accommodate a larger single ring.

From my perspective, while I’m usually quite happy on a SRAM 10-42 cogset on a drop bar bike, I do find myself looking for slightly more gear range in certain situations, or a narrower cogset paired with a wide double to narrow the jumps between gears. With the Air Land Sea, those who want a double will have to choose Di2. I have a feeling most will choose a single and be happy with it.

Pushing Innovation

When Stephanie and I started conceiving the bike builds that became our Wolverines, which was nearly two years ago, options for drop bar bikes that fit wider-than-average tires were few and far between. And at the time 650b wheels on drop bar bikes was certainly not the norm. I remember researching those bikes, reading what people were up to on blogs and on Instagram and so on, and finding a real resistance to 650b road tires on bikes with 70mm of bb drop.

This was also, of course, before WTB released their tubeless-friendly Road Plus tires, opening the floodgates and opening a lot of peoples’ eyes. Sure, there were enough mountain bike tires and a few 650×42 options and the Compass 650×48 Switchback Hills out of the Panaracer factory, but there definitely was a gap. The Open U.P. was a real outlier at that point, and it would still be a few months before John hopped on the Crema Duo, which went on to inspire Kyle’s Stinner.

We chose to go 650b with our Wolverines anyway and it was absolutely the right choice. We traveled on 27.5×2.1 last year, and now both bikes have Sim Works Smooth 62 fenders around tubeless 47/48mm tires. It was an unusual choice then, but now these kinds of bikes just seem normal to me. Many more people are choosing to build bikes around 650b, yet production bikes are still playing catch up, with only a few options out there.

The 333fab Air Land Sea is a perfect example that you can still get something truly out of the box by working with a custom builder. I’ve long been dreaming of a bike that’ll do exactly what this one does. It fits even larger tires than my Wolverine, which means gobs of room for fenders even with 2.1s – that’s something the Wolverine can’t do. The custom details and beautiful paint work are icing on that cake. It’s a bike straight from the imagination, and that’s a big part of what makes it special.


Follow Morgan on Instagram, and 333fab on Instagram

  • nothingfuture

    I’ve started to come around on bikes like this- for a while I just didn’t get them, and only recently have I been playing on something in the same family and finding how much fun it is.
    Regarding gearing: I’ve been running 1x drivetrains on my MTBs for years, and I love it. But on something that does a bunch of road-ish miles, I really find the jumps in gearing too large for my taste. Maybe it’s leftover from years of riding road bikes with nice tight cog stacks, but it just wasn’t working for me. So, much to my own surprise, I’m running a 2x setup on my version of this style bike. I don’t love front derailleurs, but right now I think this sort of bike benefits from them, still. Maybe somebody will do a close-ratio 12 speed stack (9-36?) and that’ll be great. Who knows!

    • Alex Hillis

      3T is doing an 11 speed cassette with a 9 tooth for their Strada road bike. May be worth considering for your needs.

    • I’ve been having the same thoughts about a closer ratio single ring road stack this year. Club rides with the 10-42 and 11-42 cog stacks are definitely doable, but you have to be comfortable riding in a wider range of rpm to ride with a group. Interested to see what the next generation of SRAM road stuff looks like… not holding my breath for Shimano!

      Right now I’ve got an 11-36 10-speed and 38/24 crank on my Wolverine. I spent a lot of time in the 11, 13, and 15 tooth cogs on Saturday’s 200k. My first move is going to be a 42/28 or 44/28 up front, but for the tighter jumps between gears I’ll also need to go to a smaller cassette. Given I’d like something near a 1:1 ratio as my lowest gear, 11-28 or 11-32 could both do.

      • nothingfuture

        I’m running a 32 and 44 for chainrings, with an eight speed 11-28 cassette. That’s with 26” wheels, mind you.
        Works pretty well for me in my area- though if I was doing more technical single track or lived near big climbs, I’d likely want more low end.
        I’m enjoying this style bike WAY MORE than I expected to. Lots of fun.

        • That’s a mountain triple without the granny! ‘Round these parts they take off the 44, hah!

      • Harley Raylor

        I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my first year on my 333Fab All-road rolling tubeless 44mm snoqualmie pass compass tires. Max is great to work with and a true artist! The drivetrain I use which has functioned flawlessly is white industries 46/30 with 11-32 11-speed which gives me that slightly lower than 1:1 which is really really nice on steep gravel terrain while maintaining that high gear when on the paved. Also use G30 cranks. 46 feels a bit too high but I was concerned if the shimano RD could handle a 28 front 32 rear combo. I’ll look for your update when you decide on the 44/28 and 11-32 combo if you go that route and happily drop the teeth on the front. Thanks for the honest review.

        • I’ve got an XT 10-speed mountain derailleur, I don’t think it’ll have a problem with that kind of ratio. It’s the front derailleur and the shift from a relatively small inside ring to a relatively big middle ring that I’m more worried about.

      • Thae main reason for spec’ing the 1x, cable shifting, drivetrain is clutched rear derailleurs are awesome, especially for off-road riding. That said, one could also go Di2 w 2 chainrings using road levers and a clutched Shimano mtn deailleur. In the case of the AirLandSea, I didnt want to change the cable routing depending on 1x or 2x preferences and chose to stick to my guns and offer 1x as the cable shifting standard w full housing. Going 2x would require routing the full housing cables along the TT and I wanted to keep that area clean. While the AirLandSea is spec’d this way, there is always the option to go custom but I dont mind the jumps between gears for the kind of all-road riding that I do and find the gearing to be just fine for me. I can see it being more of an issue for group paceline riding but that’s not what this bike is about. Its really designed as a drop bar mountain-rando bike, whatever that is, but that is where it comes from and why its spec’d the way it is. Gotta set some limits… :)

      • Alexander Hongo

        Have a 42×11-40 and have been comfy on gravel grades and racy pacelines. The big jumps are annoying, though, and there have been rides where it’s hard to keep the rear end hooked up at low rpm. I think a 42/28×11-32 is really smart.

        • Yeah, I rode a few bikes with 40T and 10-42 and 11-42 on club rides and off road adventures this year. Having a gear that’s just slightly below 1:1 is ideal for this kind of riding. 11-speed is also advantageous over 10-speed for gear spacing.

  • Scott Sattler

    Amazing. That rear cluster with the Paul bits looks like a Swiss watch. Bravo, Max !

  • boomforeal


  • Jared Jerome

    I like the geo on that extra-small size for the folks that need it. Good on them for having that option.

    • Thanks Jared. I really wanted to have a wide ranging size chart that fits riders between 5′ – 6’5. Since I usually do custom fit bikes for each rider i work with it was important to me to include folks on the ends of the height spectrum sonce they are almost always left off the size charts. Working up a comprehensive size chart was a challenge for sure and while not every body will fit perfectly on a stock sized frame, I feel that most will and that the geometry will accomodate most due to progressive angle changes through the range of sizes.

  • breed007

    Good work on the spacer stack. It’s hard to make a tall stack look good but you pulled it off.

    • Jared Jerome

      The Paragon spacers have also been pretty handy in the fight against bad looking spacers.

    • Max gets credit for all the curation on this one, including that spacer stack – it just just worked out that flipping the stem got me the bar height I needed, and 100mm was a good stem length for me with the Cowchipper.

      This is the M-L, 161mm head tube. I’d probably ride the L (183mm head tube) if I had a choice, but this really is the only Air Land Sea in existence right now so I feel pretty lucky to be riding it at all!

      It’s interesting to note that my 58cm Wolverine has essentially the same head tube length at 165mm, and 4 cm of spacers under a 0º stem, and that’s fine, but if I was having a small builder do me a bike, I’d be more picky about the spacer stack.

  • Brian Richard Walbergh

    Great Write up Morgan! Jealous you got to test this thing out, it seems to be very close to ideal for a lot of things. I am with you and still want a compact double on a rig like this. It is a beautifully built and detailed bike, I enjoy Kyler’s work as well but maybe not on a bike… I am old fashioned like that.

    • Thanks! I wouldn’t say that I’d want a double all the time, but that there are certain contexts where smaller jumps between gears would be preferable.

  • Ceol Mor

    I like!

  • Sebastian Burnell

    Crust Dreamer, Deluxe…

  • Simply put, there isn’t a single detail about this bike that I don’t like.


    Hoping someone can shed some light for me, I do not see the necessity for a Decaleur. I run a Swift Ozette bag on a Radioverks small rando rack. I attached it with the velcro straps provided on the bottom of the bag and slid the rear facing loop over the loop on the rack. I have been commuting with it and hitting my normal dirt trail shortcuts and it stays put. What am I missing?

    • Area45

      I think it just depends on how tall the bag is, how much stuff you carry and how much flop you’re willing to put up with. I have a tall Docena and I keep way too much stuff in it. Without the decaleur it would be all over the place. The decaleur keeps it locked down and it doesn’t budge at all.

      • CTDSAC

        Gotcha, that was my suspicion. Thank you for the reply.

    • The velcro straps will hold the bag reasonably when they’re new, but enough bumping around, getting dirt, and so on, and they don’t do such a good job any more. A decaleur holds the bag securely from the top, which is a third point of contact if you consider the front straps and tombstone to be the first two.

      These ones we’ve put together with pannier rails are even more secure than the traditional options, and have the added bonus of being quick-releasable. That means when you’re not riding trails, you can just clip the decaleur and the tombstone, which saves quite a bit of time getting the bag on and off.

      Your bag’s really unlikely to fall off without a decaleur, but it’ll bounce and sway a lot more.

    • I always carried a camera in my ozette, so I needed a decaleur. Also, if you’re on the road, it might not be a necessity. Off-road though and it’ll jettison pretty easily. Those straps wear out and velcro can only hold so much. Decaleurs are just for added security and stability.

    • Frank

      I dunno. I reckon a decaleur is a must. Hitting a bump at speed and the velcro letting go of a rear bag is no big deal … but a front bag going walkabout is a spooky thought.

      Here’s a picture of my set up … whipped up by the clever Tim Stredwick https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/d42449550ff9fdfcce4bc087da6e67c506871ddef2082c46edda2b2848e03712.jpg

      • Looks good, though only really adjustable in the vertical direction. I guess you could put it in place of one of the other spacers for a few mm of fore-aft adjustment.

        • Frank

          Hi Morgan.
          Yep … the distance from the stem to the bag is fixed … it required a bit of careful measurement. But it works great, plays nicely with the cables, allows for a little adjustment, and was the right price!
          Best. Frank

          • That’s kinda the limitation with all of our decaleur setups… they aren’t adjustable enough to work with a wide range of bikes. To be marketable, a wide range of fit is key. That’s why I’m so stoked on the 333fab decaleur!

          • slickfast

            Interesting, I flat out didn’t know this was a thing! Seems like a simple enough thing to develop, I wish I had known of this problem so that I could have solved it! If anyone thinks I should develop another one for the world let me know, I don’t want to step all over 333fab’s innovations.

    • Alexander Hongo

      A decaleur also pushes the bag away from the bar’s tops, making it easier and more comfortable to use them, or to open/close the bag, especially with gloves on.

      • That depends on your stem length and what rack you’re using. I find, with my stack, that a 100 stem leaves enough room for my hands to wrap the bars even without the decaleur and a 110 basically requires the decaleur to get a bit more space there.

  • trololo

    I never really thought of the impact of 3D printing on bikes but it makes so much sense for tinkerers and home mechanics alike. Excited to see what people develop.

    • Andrew Squirrel’s been 3D printing cute little handles for the rear Ozette pockets. Can’t wait to get my hands on some of those too!

    • slickfast

      I’ve been getting into cycling-focused 3D printing products (mostly Garmin adapters so far) and didn’t know that people were actually interested in these decaleurs… I always thought they were too much of a pain to deal with. What does this do differently? If you have any requests or ideas I’m all ears!

  • Area45

    Damn this bike is good! Graphics, fork, taillight, room for fenders. So good!

  • Peter Chesworth

    A superb machine. The decalleur will be in demand. Present solutions can be clunky.

    • Alexander Hongo


  • Froste

    I have been riding a very similar bike, a Fitz Cycles Fire Road Racer for a few months now and absolutely love it! I have ridden a few hard Brevets such as Orr Springs 600k running Compass SBH but recently been loving the 2.25 Schwalbe TB for the fire roads in the Bay Area. Bikepacking all around has been a blast too! The only thing I am changing in the near future is switching to slightly wider bars. Other than that I am totally stoked on this bike and catch myself smiling every time I see it. John Fitzgerald / Fitz Cycles in Santa Rosa will build a fully custom shred sled like this including racks and all the add-ons for less than 2.5k which is a steal! The 333FAB ALS looks to be equally fun!




    • Damn, that looks good!

    • jtbadge

      Usually a gumwall fan, but that thing looks downright mean with those Thunder Burts. Sick bike.

      • Maxwell Kullaway

        Those are WTB Ranger 2.25’s and the frame and fork will fit the honjo h95 65mm low-profile fenders w those tires. Built it all around that combo.

    • very nice, too! thunder burt is a great tire!

  • rocketman

    beautiful bike!! as far as low trail, I had the same feeling when I was switching back and forth between low and medium trail bikes. Now that I only ride low trail bikes ( except MTB’s) my body has adjusted to the light touch and it feels perfectly normal. My similar bike built by Chauncey Matthews of Belen NM about 4 years ago. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/d5b67b32ed567f7c64e051dd3cba651211fff1aba85f15c651ac679235be8ac5.jpg

    • That’s what all the low trail converts say… stop riding all other bikes and low trail bikes will no longer feel weird! Then proceed to call all other bikes weird!

      I tend to ride a lot of different bikes, though, so what I really need is to spend more time on low trail bikes so they all feel fine. What’s the head angle and fork offset on yours?

      • rocketman

        the HTA is 73 d and the fork rake is 63mm and 650B wheels. Max tire is 2.1″ with the Pacenti PBP fork crown. I did find that after 15 min the low trail bike felt normal as I seem to adjust to the steering pretty fast.

  • 31 is all time! I keep wishing that I build my bike 650,

    • Thanks! I was especially stoked on the 35-1 flip. Bag, no bag, bag, no bag!

      Your Space Horse with a 75 drop? Curious how you find it on 650×47. I’m comfortable on a 70 drop with 42s on 175 cranks, so I assume I’d also be comfortable with a 75 drop and 47s. But this is reaching the point that not everyone is comfortable with having their pedals that low.

  • mudfap

    damn. been drooling over elephant nfe, rawland rsogn, bantam, and page street outback builds and now this. so good. I’m about to pull the trigger on a rawland ulv and planning to invest in two wheel sets: 29er with 2.25s and 27.5er with 2.8s. not sure which one I’ll build around a dynamo hub – probably the 27.5 – with same light mounted on a nitto mark’s rack. curious what you think about the wire situation. I’m inclined to wrap it around fork and rack vs. zip tie it. is it just aesthetics or do you think one way is better? also wondering what rims you recommend for tubeless.

    • On our Wolverines I used zip ties and electrical tape. I think it looks cleaner and leaves less of the wire exposed in case the fork happens to contact something (even a picnic bench at a campsite). Wrapping around also leaves the end result to fate… will the coil you so painstakingly make even stay that way? Hmm…

      For rims there are so many good options out there these days, as mountain bike riders are not willing to suffer poorly fitting bead seats. The buying public is picky, and will eventually avoid rims that are difficult to work with on known-good tires (such as the Blunt SS on the Air Land Sea, not enough drop center making tire removal and installation a pain in the ass) or tires that fit either too tight or too loose on known-good rims.

      We primarily use WTB rims, as their bead seats are very consistent across all rim models, as are their tires. The KOMs are great for narrower applications and the Scrapers are what we have on our 27.5+ bikes. I’ve also got Frequency Teams on my Wolverine, which perform just as well, but weigh about 40g per rim more than the KOMs due to the I-beam construction. One exception is the 27.5+ Ranger, which does seem to fit tighter than average – but we enjoy the tire in use and its casing is excellent.

      • mudfap

        thanks, Morgan, gonna check out, but I heard koms were a real pain to mount…

        • We have 3 bikes in the house with KOMs, two sets of i23s and one set i25s, and never have I found them to be a problem. Tires we’ve set up tubeless on KOMs recently: Soma Cazadero, Compass Switchback Hill and Babyshoe Pass, WTB Nano 2.1, Horizon, Byway, Resolute.

          • mrbiggs

            I’ll second that. I have three KOM wheelsets. i23, i29, and now a 650b i23 on the stand. No problems on any of them. Nano, Riddler, Resolute, and Compass Snoqualmie on the i23; Maxxis Ikon, Ardent, and Schwalbe Nobby Nic on the i29. Totally ace.

  • Thanks for the great write up, Morgan. This has got me very excited for my new build which has a really similar build spec!

    • Whatcha cookin’?

      • Geekhouse Woodville, steel fork & stem. Paul Klampers, Nitto Mini, SON hub & Supernova lights. Still torn between 1x & 2x but as it’s mainly off-road touring down here in Aus it’ll most likely be the 1x setup.

        • Hunter Ellis

          2x with a sram gx derailleur, rival/force shifter, and the jtek adapter could be a game changer. Currently am waiting on the jtek, but 10-42 in the back with 30-42 in the front is basically a holy grail in terms of gear options with sti road shifters.

          • That is a LOT of gear range, but still the big jumps between gears. Why do you need a GX derailleur? Or are you talking about the front?

          • Hunter Ellis

            Gx is the only one with 44t of chain wrap and 10-42 capacity. Yeah I was talking about the rear. It would basically allow you two modes:a 1x road gearing and a 1x mtb gearing.
            Jumps on the 42 t chainring wouldn’t be too bad, although you’re probably right about the 30t jumps. Right now just running a 1x with 38t In the front. A little stiff on the steep off-road climbs but it’s not so bad.

        • Oh hell yeah.

  • Alexander Hongo

    Shhh! Before you know it, Trek and Giant will be making 650b drop-bar bikes. Then what will I do to be weird and cool?

    • Sebastian Burnell

      You won`t.

    • mudfap

      but they’ll never get the geometry right, amirite? I am rite.

  • Farneybuster

    I feel like the David after the dentist viral video kid from a few years ago… “Is this real life?!?” So many mind blowing details, and the paint job! Is it real life?

  • kimbo305

    > tubeless 47mm tire

    Which tire is this?

    • WTB Byway or Horizon are 47mm. This tire pictured is a Ranger 2.25″

      • kimbo305

        Ah. I guess I had the Horizon in my head as a 48mm. Wonder if it’ll fit into a Slate…

  • Darren Douglas

    by chance, do you know what size this ALS is? Just to get a visual on what size I would need? I am struggling on the fit between the 57 and 59cm TT versions…

    • This is the M-L, 161mm head tube, 570 top tube. If I was going to get one of these myself, I’d go with the L for more head tube and more top tube. If you’re struggling with fit, hit up Max! He’s a custom frame builder!