Klamper Solution on My Stinner Hardtail Aug 22, 2017

I’m not sure how many of you caught this in the gallery showcasing my Stinner hardtail but we ran into an issue when building the bike up. I wanted to run Klampers on this bike, since I’m using it for some bikepacking trips in the near future and I really liked the way the Retrotec I rode at Paul Camp’s Klamper brakes felt with the short pull lever. So, when I bought the frame from Stinner, we began building it and ran into a problem. It’s a common issue, when a frame is designed to run modern hydraulic disc brakes and you try to run a cable actuated brake like the Klamper, with its high cable entry point. Basically, if we ran the cable through the braze-on and into the Klamper, it wouldn’t work; the bend was too abrupt for the cable.

When I brought it up to Aaron at Stinner, he suggested using a V-Brake noodle, so I passed the idea off to Mike at Golden Saddle Cyclery. This is what he worked up. A simple noodle, with rubber heat shrink tubing around the metal part, so it won’t scratch the seatstay. Personally, I think this is an elegant solution.

  • Dr J

    That’s cool but why would you build a frame with a disc mount on the seatstay when cable mounts are on the chainstay? Either go with a flat mount on chainstay or move cable mounts on the seatstay and run housing along the top tube.

    • A lot of frames are built like this. It works fine with hydraulic lines. I dunno. It’s sixes.

    • It’s an aesthetic thing. Running one line along the top tube, while everything else runs along the downtube is silly and an eye sore imho. Adjust your banjo on you hydro brake and boom. Or, in this situation, pull out your left over v brake noodles and boom!

      • Some say eyesore, some say attribute. Love the way Karate Monkeys and my beloved Pugsley have their cabling under the top tube with triple-bosses. Also made a lot of sense for touring and bikepacking, no chance of damage and everything’s neatly tucked against the framebag so the cables can’t interfere with your sleeping bag roll or your hydration tube or whatever.

        New flat-mount cable disk brake calipers from Shimano are shipping with V-brake noodles. I had to use both for my Crockett. They look exactly like the ones actually produced for V-brakes… our kids will be calling them “mech brake noodles”

  • recurrecur

    Those noodles are super useful for other cable routing things like this. I used some on my touring bike to go from my Retroshift/Gevenalle shift levers AROUND my Ortlieb handlebar bag.

    A seriously good trick to have in the bag.

    • Scott Felter

      And Rohloff cable routing. Noodle out from the shifter, and then you don’t have massive housing loops off the front.

  • Matt Good

    The flexi-noodle wins again. Thank you Sheepdog and BikeGuide.org

    • fbmphil

      Holy shit, what a throwback. G-Sport wheelbuilding guide, the V-Noodle trick…14 years ago now.

  • Brett

    The barrel nuts in the disc tabs are a nice touch.

  • Stefan Haverkamp

    Wouldn’t it have been better to route the brake line inside of the seat stay? Apart from that: Clean solution!

    • Not at all. I don’t like internal routing. It makes it a pain to work on the bike and on a mtb, it’ll just get dirty.

      • Stefan Haverkamp

        Ah, no. Sorry, I’m not an english native speaker. What I meant was to route the cable around the seat stay side that faces the wheel instead of routing it around the outward facing side.

        • Ah, I see. Well, this way there’s no chance in the cable interfering with the spokes.

          • Tons of bikes have the cable routed along the seatstay instead of the chainstay and I don’t think they can possibly hit the spokes. But, you’d need to run the brake line along the top tube like a Surly Karate Monkey.

            Honestly that bend near the braze-on still looks way too serious for me. But you might be delighted to know that newer (2018) Shimano flat-mount cable disc brake calipers actually come with a V-brake noodle for exactly this problem. I had to use them front and rear on my Crockett.

            We’re obsolete!

          • He’s saying I should run the cable behind the seat stay to make it less of a bend outward. So instead of the cable being on the outside, he wants to see it on the inside of the seat stay. Make sense?

          • Stefan Haverkamp

            As an addendum or explanation for my question: My understanding of conventional wisdom is: You route the brake line inside the stays so it is less prone to get caught by trees, rocks or your shoes. A hydraulic hose is pretty stiff so it should stay out of the spokes’ way. With that flexible v-brake noodle in your case, I would try if it might get bend towards the spokes, just to be safe.

          • Might have to agree to disagree on this one…

            The whole way this is wired up doesn’t make a ton of sense to me. On a custom bike, there had to be a better way of doing it besides these two 90º bends. I can almost feel the friction at the braze-on along the chainstay, that’s a wicked tight bend. I can’t think of an argument not to route it along the seatstay. if it’s an aesthetic thing, how is a kludge with a big S-bend and a V-brake noodle slapping the seat-stay visually appealing?

            But hey – have you seen my bikes? They’ve got a lot more kludges than this, so I can’t really talk.

            Still, on a custom bike, I think I would prefer the aesthetic horror-show of seatstay/top tube routing:

            https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/02af2812f5984b58fa5a31370ed398252b899c81b84489cbe4ae0e14015ac388.jpg

          • Well… I didn’t tell Aaron I was going to run Klampers. It was an afterthought. So if I had, he would have run it differently I’m sure, like my 44 is setup.

  • I used a flexi-noodle to run my brake line under porteur bars for a centerpull brake. Didn’t want to run the cable over the bar, or raise the stem. My LBS suggested a flexible noodle, and I was just dumbfounded. Dead simple, but never thought about it. When you take the time and effort to build your own bike, aesthetics matter just as much as functionality.

  • Scott Black

    You could also have used Nokon or similar cable. It allows for all kinds of crazy cable routing.

  • Nicholas Petersen

    I love stuff like this.

  • c.a. metzler

    Hehe lotta keyboard-jockey frame designers crawling out for this one…I’m more curious about your experience with short-pull levers and Klampers; have you been able to compare the short-pull lever+caliper system against the long-pull lever+caliper system, and if so what was your experience? I haven’t done any force analysis yet, but in a recent round of musical partsbin I paired Paul Canti levers (circa 2012, bushing edition) with BB7R calipers and wow did the skids rain down. Given that, I plan to only purchase short-pull calipers going forward because I can use them on drop bar and flat bar bikes in this modern world of convenience and variety.